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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate familiar award-winning names. Yet, tucked prominently among these culinary giants is a modest salonu situated in a distant area of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. This honour has left the family completely shocked.

“I am utterly surprised,” says a family member, referring to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest place achieving such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost many times that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.